Things you do that your dog (probably) doesn't like

Dogs don't always like kisses and hugs

Not all dogs appreciate being treated like teddy bears. A big hug or a heartfelt kiss on the forehead is an expression of love for us – but for a dog, it can be perceived as intrusive and stressful. You may have experienced that the dog sits next to you, nuzzles you or lies down on your lap. You interpret it as an invitation to cuddle, offer a hug and kiss the dog on the head – and get embarrassed when the dog gets up and leaves, maybe even growls.

No, the dog does not dislike you as a person. The aim is not to be impolite. Dogs as a species simply don't communicate with catchy kisses and hugs. They sit close, fiddle with their fur, lick the corners of each other's mouths and share a quiet presence, without scratching. Many dogs love it when we cuddle, scratch and pet, but hugs and kisses are often met with a stiff body, sideways gaze, nose lick or a strained yawn, a clear "no thanks".

Let the dog rest and sleep alone

"He's so cute when he's sleeping," we say and sit down next to the dog to pet. Sigh... Maybe the dog is thinking. It's almost impossible to resist that cute, relaxed little face that lies and snoozes on the couch or bed when you walk by. Maybe the dog looks up at you and you immediately burst out in a bright voice: "Mom's little heart – you're so cute..." The dog may wag its tail a little, play along and meet you in the greeting, push itself backwards and show its belly.

But often the same thing happens as with the hugs – the dog gets up, changes position further away or even growls. What really happened? Well, the dog woke up from an important and nice rest, was caught off guard and stressed.

Does the dog look at you by angle its eyes down, look to the side, wag its tail slowly, lick its nose or yawn? Then you've woken up more than just the dog – you've aroused discomfort. These signals are not an invitation to cuddle, but a clear desire for space.

All dogs are individuals, so it is important to read your dog's signals in this context. But as a general rule: leave resting and sleeping dogs alone.
 

Claw clipping and bathing – practice security instead of force

A common misconception is that dogs should only put up with certain things, and that they will get used to it if we expose them often enough. Instead, dogs need to be slowly and gently trained to feel confident that we are cutting off a piece of their body or lathering them up from the tip of their tail to the tips of their ears.

In addition, dogs like to smell like dogs. If you shower them too often, they'll smell like shampoo and "clean," which isn't natural to them and can affect their communication with other dogs. Skin and fur actually feel best when sparingly cleansed.

Dressing up is usually uncomfortable for dogs

Sure, it can feel fun for us to see the dog in a Santa hat, reindeer antler or Halloween pumpkin but for the dog it is usually something completely different -  both uncomfortable and limiting. Animal suits are rarely ergonomically designed which affecte the dog's thermoregulation and ability to move.

In addition, the costume can cause the dog to attract attention from others in a way it does not want at all. The clothes can also limit the dog's ability to communicate through body language. In short: a dog doesn't need clothes, unless it's to protect against cold, rain, or strong winds.

Group photos can create stress

Many dogs find it uncomfortable to sit close to other dogs or people just because we want a nice picture. When we "pack up" them for a photo, it can create congestion stress, especially if one dog does not know the others so well or if the dog is not as used to children as you might think.

Pay attention to small warning signs:

• Head twists
• Side glances
• Stiff body language
• Nose-licking

If you see these signs, it's better to give the dog more space. If you still want a group photo, you can let each dog sit where it feels comfortable and increase the distance between the participants.

Dogs don't always want to greet everyone and everything

Not all dogs want to greet others. Forced greetings can lead to conflict, stress or fear – something that in the long run can make the dog extroverted or anxious in social situations.

Read your dog's signals when someone wants to say hello and let the dog's response be your response to the person. Respect a no – your dog is not the public teddy bear. If a dog does greet you, remember that quality always takes precedence over quantity. A short and calm greeting that makes a dog feels safe is much better than a long cuddle session or a playtime that instead causes stress.

Music and loud noises can be unpleasant for dogs

Dogs have much more sensitive hearing than humans and many react to loud noises or to loud keys that do not register with us. Vacuum cleaners, especially with clogged filters, can cause discomfort, as can nail guns and drills. Music at high volume, action or war movies, and sudden cheers when the hockey team scores can take a dog's breath away. Of course, there are thunderstorms and fireworks that really frighten our four-legged friends.

We often think the dog needs to become accustomed to these sounds, so we expose him to them. Regardless of whether your dog seems to experience the sounds as unpleasant or not, it is rarely a fun experience for the dog to choose to walk away, clip its ears or lick its nose. Therefore, try to avoid loud noises as much as possible to give the dog a calmer and safer environment.

If you have a dog that is particularly afraid of noise, you should seek help from a dog behaviourist. 

Driving – drive calmly for the dog's sake

Sharp accelerations, abrupt braking and curvy roads can make many dogs both nauseous and afraid of driving. To make the journey safe and comfortable, it is important to always secure the dog in an approved harness or cage so that it does not risk sliding around. Drive calmly and smoothly and make the drive a positive experience.

Feel free to train step by step. Start by just sitting in a stationary car, then move on to short, enjoyable rides and eventually build up to longer trips. Wrap rewards such as chew bones in the car and take breaks so the dog can stretch its legs and relax. And above all, don't drive like a car thief.

Don't pull on the leash – train compliance and slack leash

Admit it, we've all done it. Lost patience, forgotten that the leash is a friendship bond and instead pulled it to get the dog with us. Right then and there, we have also forgotten whose time the outdoor time really is. Our own stress has taken over.

For the dog, walking is more than just movement. Sniffing, strolling and exploring the surroundings is both enriching and natural. Of course, sometimes we may have to hurry, but in that case it is better to teach the dog a signal that means "now we have to hurry". In this way, the dog gets information and can keep up without us having to pull on the leash.

Sure, sometimes we need to interrupt the dog in the middle of something fun, but we always do best to communicate it in a friendly way. Tugging on the leash, on the other hand, is never a winning concept if you want to teach the dog to walk nicely. When you jerk, the dog loses its balance and compensates by hanging forward, which leads to even more pulling. The dog may also start to want to seek out the discomfort, that is, away from you. Or the result is that the dog no longer dares to go out on the leash for fear of more jerks.

What you get is not a harmonious and happy dog, but a constantly anxious one.

Loneliness training – don't leave more than they can handle

Dogs are very much pack animals and therefore it is unnatural for them to be alone. However, in our everyday lives, it's not always possible to have the dog with us everywhere, and sometimes we have to leave it at home. By law, a dog can never be left alone for longer than six hours, and for puppies, sick or older dogs, even shorter time applies.

Six hours is also an incredibly long time for a dog that is not trained to cope with loneliness. Therefore, not only be aware of the law, but also look at your dog's individual ability to be on their own. Today, there is modern and ethical loneliness training that is not based on just exposing the dog to loneliness.

If your dog has difficulty being alone, get help in training. With the right guidance, your dog can learn to feel safe and calm in moments of rest even when you're not at home.

Avoid nagging commands – train signals correctly

No one likes a nagger. Many dogs also start to think that "Hit, hiiiit, HIT, I SAID IT!" is the signal for recall. This is because humans have a tendency to continue nagging and raising our voices when the dog does not do what we say.

The best thing is to say your signal calmly and clearly, let the dog think about what to do and, if it doesn't understand, help it along the way, for example with hand movements. We should then reward generously, not with a dry, boring kibble that has been in our jacket pocket for a week (because who wants to work for that?).

We need to let go of the idea that dogs should want to cooperate just for the sake of cooperation. They need to be motivated and feel the desire and reason to want to listen. So reward more.

Then we should practice, practice, and practice some more to ensure the dog can perform what we require on a single signal, in several contexts, and despite various disturbances.. Once the dog knows the right moment, it will listen to you when you ask.

Additionally, it is important to recognize that dogs are good at many things, but poor at generalizing, that is, learning one thing at home in the kitchen and then being able to perform it on a dog course, in town, or on the train. Therefore, we need to train in several different contexts and patiently guide until the dog can and wants to do as we say.